Something With Chablis In It

The town of Chablis, viewed from one of the Grand Cru vineyards

FRANCE POST #1 :: Author Bianca Bosker’s anecdote about having gone to a wine shop to ask for “something with Chablis in it” has been mentioned here before. Despite the fact that we may have grown up around parents who drank California wine labelled “Burgundy” (for red) and “Chablis” (for white), neither of those words describe grape varieties. They are both places in France where grapes grow; Pinot Noir (red Burgundy) and Chardonnay (white Burgundy).

About two hours’ drive from Paris, the town of Chablis sits in a river valley formed by the river Serein. The rolling hills and valleys offer many angles to the sun. The slope to the east of the town center, on the right bank of the river, is steeper than most and is uniquely positioned. It is here that the best Chablis – from the seven Grand Cru plots – is grown.

Chablis marks the northern reaches of Bourgogne (Burgundy), the region of the wine world that has made a science and art of climat. Each small area is separately appreciated for its particular qualities resulting from its soil, aspect to the sun, weather, history and vines. The process of classifying Chablis’ 47 small plots has taken many centuries and is typical of the whole Burgundy region. The UNESCO World Heritage Committee includes the climatsof the Burgundy winegrowing region on their World Heritage List.

Chardonnay is the only grape variety grown in Chablis and this is considered its birthplace. The style of the wine here is crisp and clean, high in its acidity and – famously – in its minerality. Millions of years ago this land was under water. The Kimmeridgean and Portlandian limestone found in the soils today still show fossilized evidence of this past and are thought to contribute to the flavors of the wines. It is also worth noting that Chablis is near the northern limit for successful grape growing, affording the vines a cool climate for slowly ripening Chardonnay. This geography also contributes to Chablis’ distinct style of wine.

A limestone fragment found in one of Chablis’ Grand Cru sites shows ancient fossils formed when the area was under water millions of years ago

A tasting at Domain Laroche offered a chance to experience the differences between wines of several climat, including a Grand Cru. We also enjoyed tasting an older example which offered a glimpse into the aging potential of this style of Chardonnay. Wine tourism is growing in France and this long-established winery not only preserves Chablis’ deep heritage but has also boldly embraced its future. Their use of new technology to tell their region’s story is impressive.

This 13th-century press is still operable and becomes the backdrop of an impressive multi-media presentation at Domaine Laroche

In these waning days of summer, Chablis is a refreshing choice that would win over even the most adamant “ABC” (Anything But Chardonnay) partisan. And if you visit Chablis, don’t miss the local pastry specialty: the Gougère!