Beyond the "Golden Gate" of Bourgogne

FRANCE POST #2 :: We only had time for a daytrip from Paris into wine country, so we couldn’t make it all the way to Burgundy’s famed Côte d’Or (“Golden Slope”).  Instead we began in famous Chablis – sometimes called Burgundy’s “Golden Gate.”  We continued southwest into the lesser-known ancient villages near the town of Auxerre.  Sometimes time limitations result in discovering unexpected treasures.

 The Grand Auxerre encompasses almost 600 acres under vine, producing white, rosé and red wines under several appellations (AOCs): 

• Saint-Bris (the only white Burgundy made of Sauvignon)

• Irancy (red only, made of Pinot Noir and up to 10% César)

• Bourgogne Côte d’Auxerre and Bourgogne Coulanges-la-Vineuse (red from Pinot Noir and white from Chardonnay )

This region was especially prosperous back in the days when goods (like wine) were transported on the water.  The Yonne river flows through the area and goes on to join the Seine, thus affording Auxerre a commercial water route into the populous Paris basin.  Although the railroads later became the preferred way to ship goods, vignerons in these ancient villages continue to make wine as they have for centuries.

Domaine Beran has produced wine here for six centuries, aging it in ancient cellars located beneath the domaine – which resembles a prosperous residence.  They are located in Saint-Bris-Le-Vineux.

Domaine Clos du Roi is another independent, family-run concern with three generations of winemaking in its history.  Here local cheeses and salad joined the domaine’s current releases which included rosé along with white and red. It is located in Bourgogne Coulanges-la-Vineuse.

These appellations lie in the shadow of their famous neighbor, Chablis, but allow a glimpse into winemaking at a village level by families who have been dedicated to the craft for generations.  Like in our own country, large companies are exerting a growing influence in the French wine industry.  In Grand Auxerre we experienced wine that does not appear on the global market but which is woven into the life and work of the French people.

Go there! www.winetoursparis.com offers several day tours to wine country from Paris, including a day in Chablis and northern Burgundy.