Un-PARRA-lled

One of the best things about writing for Oregon Wine Press has been meeting wine people in my new home state. Some have come to wine from another pursuit that left them in a position fortunate enough that they can plant vines or build a winery as a “second act.” Sam Parra comes from a more humble place. But his passion and creativity rival those of anyone else I have met so far. Enjoy this profile that appeared in the September 2024 issue and is available on OWP’s website as well.

El Toro and El Matador decide to make wine, not war.

We can all learn from them.

SALUD!

This aphorism, an original vision of cooperation and community, adorns the back label of wines made by Sam Parra. Borrowed from his Hispanic heritage, the toro (bull) and matador (bullfighter) indeed are unlikely allies.

Parra’s path from a family of vineyard workers in Napa Valley to the pages of Forbes magazine is just as unlikely. Recognized by Wine Industry Advisor as one of the “Most Inspiring People” of 2024, this savvy and scrappy entrepreneur has defied the odds. Since bootstrapping his wine brand in 2018, he has carved out a niche in an industry often defined by luxury and wealth. By embracing lesser-known grape varieties, experimenting with alternative packaging, and leveraging the skills of others, he has created a unique fusion of wine culture and Latino heritage. With wine names like Tomolo Frio and Vino Chingon, alongside single-vineyard “passion wines,” his label is a testament to his creativity and determination.

NAPA TO WILLAMETTE

Born into the wine business, Parra, 47, has been immersed in the industry since childhood. “I’d been making wine with friends and family growing up in Napa Valley,” he said. “The three ridges on the bottom of my “P” logo represent the [family’s] three generations in the wine business.”

The planting of his family’s roots in the U.S. was facilitated by the Bracero program, which brought Sam’s grandparents, aunts and uncles from Mexico as guest workers. They were the first two generations to work as vineyard stewards in California. Two of his uncles founded Vinos Unidos (“United Wines”) in Napa. Encouraged forward by his family’s striving, Parra learned more about winemaking and marketing while working various jobs in Napa and Sonoma.

Among the connections Parra fostered in California was the late Gary Andrus, co-founder of California’s Pine Ridge Winery and Archery Summit Estate in Oregon’s Dundee Hills. Parra credits Andrus with providing his first glimpse of the Willamette Valley on a trip together in 1999. “I fell in love with the valley back then,” he said. “It reminded me a lot of [California’s] Mendocino County.”

Subsequent visits to Oregon led to Parra’s relocation here. The Andrus connection continued to pay off when Parra met Todd Hamina. Soon, Biggio-Hamina’s custom crush business was the location Parra used to make his brand’s first small batches of wine while building a new base in the place he calls the “state of dreamers.”

GETTING THE WORD OUT

The results of an Internet search of Parra Wine Co. reveal profiles by various media, from the aforementioned Forbes articles to Wine Enthusiast, Seven Fifty Daily, podcasts and regional press. How can Parra afford such an effective publicist?

As usual, there’s a story.

“I was senior wine educator at a winery in Napa,” Parra recalls. An industry tour brought two bloggers to his tasting room alongside more influential distributors and retailers. Parra hit it off with the two women, going “above and beyond” by providing them with restaurant recommendations and local shopping pointers. Two days later, they were back - bearing a gift of chocolate from one of the local shops he suggested - to express appreciation for Parra’s hospitality. Apparently, they had been less warmly received at some of their other winery visits, and they wanted him to know he had made a positive impression.

Parra kept in touch with them, and when the bloggers later took positions with Forbes and Wine Enthusiast, they became eager to share his story with a wider audience. “It’s all about maintaining relationships,” Parra said. He credits the resulting national coverage with helping his fledgling brand survive the disruption of the Covid pandemic.

BOOTSTRAPPING

Parra’s generational wealth comes from his family’s encouragement and deep knowledge of wine growing and production, but not from deep pockets of capital. Hard work, creativity, and shoestring budgets have gotten him this far.

He is not alone. According to the Stanford Latino Entrepreneurship Initiative, Latino-owned businesses have increased 34% over the past decade, a rate disproportionate even to this fast-growing segment of the U.S. population. Stanford’s research lists access to capital among Latino entrepreneurs' most significant hurdles. Often turned down for bank loans, these businesses seek alternative lending and capital development sources.

Last fall, Parra appeared in Portland before a live audience alongside nine other entrepreneurs at an event called Pitch Latino. It was an initiative of The Latino Founders Accelerator, “an industry-agnostic program to support entrepreneurs in scaling their products, technology, and services,” according to their website. Parra came away with $2500 after competing against presentations for everything from social media apps to travel trailers.

Encouragement from the larger wine industry followed early this year with a grant from the Montoya Opportunity Fund backed by the international brand Naked Wines.

The fund’s founder, Macario Montoya, came to winemaking after a stint in the finance industry following college. While working entry-level jobs in the industry, he noticed the disparity between the essential role played by Latino people and their visibility in wine. “Latinos make up a bulk of the wine industry yet are so underrepresented as winemakers,” he said. “I want to help them achieve new goals and see them succeed, and am happy to do whatever it takes.”

Montoya’s passion allied with Naked Wine’s interest in increasing their commitment to inclusion. “We see a lack of diversity in the industry as a real problem that is denying consumers access to some amazing talent that deserves a platform,” said Nick Devlin, chief executive officer of Naked Wines, in a press release.

A Giving Tuesday that marketed a Malbec made by Montoya fueled the first round of 14 grants, totaling $80,000, awarded to Latino winemakers to use for their brands’ education, production or marketing expenses. Parra used his $10,000 grant for production costs associated with several new wines. “I think it speaks volumes for such a big international company to help out people of color in general,” he said.

Helping out goes in both directions for Parra. His bilingual skills and business savvy caught the attention of Salem’s Heritage Grove Credit Union earlier this year when they hired him as their Community Relations Officer. “I attend the career job fairs at high schools and colleges. I attend the business orientations. I basically connect the community with the credit union for loans,” he said. Balancing the demands of this role with those of Parra Wine Co. may seem daunting, but Parra feels the two strengthen each other. “It's so hard to work with two jobs,” he admits, “but it's a good balance in life of doing 100% of what I love.”

Parra also lends his leadership to AHIVOY (Asociación Hispana de la Industria del Vino en Oregon y Comunidad—Hispanic Association of the Wine Industry in Oregon and Community), a non-profit in the Willamette Valley that works to empower vineyard stewards through education. He is also active in Celebrating Hispanic Roots, a group of Oregon winery owners and winemakers working to increase the visibility of Hispanic cultures in the industry.

WINEMAKING

Lundeen Wines is now the center of Parra’s winemaking activity, where his brand shares space and draws upon the expertise of winemaker Michael Lundeen. The collaboration has been stimulating for both men.

Reflecting on the decision to welcome custom crush clients, Lundeen remarked, “I realized I quite enjoyed this type of arrangement because of the people I was able to work with, and we were able to have it be a really fun and engaging creative experience.”

Parra’s focus on Tempranillo, the grape variety of Spain’s Rioja region, connects to his Hispanic culture. He may well have set a record for the number of ways he has used this red variety: in a blend and as a single-varietal, in carbonic style, as sparkling, “port” and rosé. He also embraces varieties seldom seen in Oregon, such as Blaufränkisch and Gewürtztraminer.

Tomalo Frio is a hibiscus and cinnamon-infused Tempranillo wine that was so novel that it required filing the formula with the federal TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau). Inspired by Jamaica (“ha-MAY-kah”) aguas frias found at any taqueria, Tomalo Frio (literally, “drink it cold”) is a cross-cultural offering that also appeals to anyone seeking a refreshing, lower alcohol beverage. “I add about 20% San Pellegrino sparkling water,” Parra said, noting that in the process the calorie count and alcohol level decrease.

Parra’s wines often feature Spanish-language names intended to build bridges to new markets. Red blends with names like Dulce Remedio (“Sweet Remedy” or “Medicine”) and Consulta (loosely translated as “Therapist”) build on brand concepts that link wine drinking with “winding down.”

“He came up with the creative kernel of all these ideas,” according to Michael Lundeen. “And then he comes to me, and I'm like, okay, well, this is how we would accomplish that… like the artist and the logistics coming together. That's sort of how I feel about the partnership.”

FUTURE

One of Parra’s wines is named Vino Chingon. The Spanish word can mean anything from “bold” or “assertive” to simply “badass.” It’s a glimpse into Parra's ambitious future for his Oregon wine company.

Growth in sparkling and infused wine categories and interest in canned wine spur Parra’s vision of what’s next. While he began his business focusing on single-vineyard “passion wines,” he also wants to offer products with a wider appeal. The collaboration with Lundeen gives him the needed bandwidth to do more.

“I know I cannot do this on my own,” he acknowledges.

Parra is also grateful to industry partners such as Casteel Custom Bottling and Tinman Mobile Canning for helping him enter new categories at price points his company can afford.

Parra is confident that new flavor profiles and alternative packaging have the potential to reach markets beyond Oregon. “I’m already laying the pavement… for success for down the road,” said Parra, who is discussing possibilities with out-of-state partners.

FOSTERING RELATIONSHIPS

El Toro and El Matador appear on Parra Wine Co.’s labels in a logo shaped like a traditional family crest, perhaps reminiscent of those seen on more established brands. The artist who drew the characters for Parra bartered wine for her efforts. It is another example of the importance of collegiality and creativity in his winemaking and business.

“Some people have a gift for engaging with people and fostering community,” observed Michael Lundeen. “That’s how he pulls this together. It’s through all these relationships he’s built… and maximizing other people’s talents. He’s very good at that.”