Something New Underfoot in Oregon
/A visit to Pfeiffer Winery, near Eugene, Oregon, is a happening. The winery is known throughout the surrounding communities for the regularly-scheduled events held in their event pavilion surrounded by vines and a unique water garden. And for their delicious wines. But the real excitement is going on underfoot – literally.
Grape vines began to be planted here in the mid-1980s on land that had previously been a sheep farm. After years of selling the fruit to other wineries, Pfeiffer began producing its own wine with the 2005 vintage. The winery is the passion project of Robin Pfeiffer, who grew up on this land, and his wife Danuta. This accomplished and charismatic couple live on the property and can regularly be found sharing stories and wine with guests. “They are the brand,” says General Manager Doug Oldfield.
Doug is a newcomer to Oregon, having moved there to join the Pfeiffer staff in September of 2020. A self-described “wine geek,” and bringing years of experience building businesses, Doug is excited by his new life. “I feel very fortunate that they’ve given me this opportunity,” he says of the Pfeiffers. “A lot of what I know I can apply. But this is such a different process and different product. So that’s what I enjoy every day… how to apply what I’ve done to something completely different.”
Among Doug’s challenges is the chance to be part of forming a new American Viticultural Area (AVA) – the Lower Long Tom AVA – along with all of the opportunities it represents. Pfeiffer is located in the southern end of the Willamette Valley, home to Pinot Noir and other cool-climate varieties. But the Willamette Valley is huge – over 100 miles long from north to south. Since the early 2000’s, nine sub-AVAs have been approved in order to differentiate between the valley’s unique soil types and climate conditions – and their resulting wines. All of these, so far, have been in the northern part of the valley between Portland and Salem. The new Lower Long Tom AVA will be the first at the valley’s southern end. Named after a river that runs through the area, it is one of several new Oregon AVAs that are in line for approval by the federal government.
Recalling trips to Oregon as a wine tourist over the years, Doug Oldfield remembers the advent of the AVAs up north as an enticement to visit. “My wife and I would venture to those areas to seek out the wineries and vineyards we were interested in… to find out why the terroir was unique and different,” he said. Doug anticipates a similar future for the Lower Long Tom AVA, which is within an easy drive of Eugene. The city is already a destination for Track and Field enthusiasts and fans of Oregon Ducks football. “We’re going to give them a really great reason [to visit]… we’ve got a whole new AVA out here with ten wineries. Come spend the weekend.”
The Lower Long Tom and Oregon’s other new AVAs are a sign of the state’s healthy and maturing wine industry. “It feels like where we are here, outside of Eugene in the southern Willamette Valley, is kind of where the northern valley was 20-25 years ago. Mostly small, family-owned operations,” Doug said. The climate and soils are also quite different than in the north, resulting in what can be described as a more robust style of Pinot Noir. “To be lumped in with wineries outside of Portland doesn’t make any sense at all,” said Doug.
There’s always a lot going on at Pfeiffer winery. But the formation of the new Lower Long Tom AVA is literally happening underfoot. Along with their neighboring wineries, they are part of a rapidly evolving wine scene in the Willamette Valley that is well worth watching and experiencing.
Wine Notes
2019 Pinot Gris
Pale yellow. Very aromatic with lots of minerality. Medium body featuring stone fruit against a balancing acidity.
2020 Rosé of Pinot Noir
Pretty light pink/salmon color. Dry with a medium body featuring red fruit and solid acidity.
2016 Pinot Noir Blue Dot Reserve
Medium garnet and very aromatic. Dark cherry aromas, and on the palate a balance of intense fruit with baking spices and earthiness. Good acidity and a long finish. This is the winery’s top wine made from Pommard clones and having seen some French oak. Its deep, rich style distinguishes it from other Willamette Valley pinots and makes the case for the distinct style of the new Lower Long Tom AVA.