Among wine tourists, a badge of honor is to have visited a wine region before it got popular and crowded.  California wine aficionados often speak of the Napa Valley this way.  Many seem to prefer visiting wineries where unhurried tasting rooms are staffed by the same folks who grow the grapes or make the wine.  Edna Valley is one such place.

Named for the tiny town of Edna, Edna Valley AVA (American Viticultural Area) was established in 1982 and is south and east of the city of San Luis Obispo.  About 35 square miles, the gently rolling landscape is open to the ocean on the west, and surrounded by mountains on most of the other sides.  This topography makes it one of the coolest winegrowing areas in California.  Cool morning fog gets caught by the surrounding mountain ranges, even in summer. Being near the ocean also reduces the danger of frost, so the area enjoys a very long growing season.  The area’s climate definitely puts the “coast” in “Central Coast.”  Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are the most planted varieties, along with small amounts of several others.   

There are about 30 wineries in the AVA, but we only had one day!  So choices were made…

CHAMISAL

www.chamisalvineyards.com

Sustainability is a watchword among many California wineries, so it was no surprise to discover that Chamisal is SIP (Sustainability in Practice) certified.  They even grow a vegetable garden and Miyawaki forest on the property to promote biodiversity.  The 82-acre estate is planted to Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah and Grenache and dates back to 1973. 

Stepping out of the car at the vineyard, and throughout the outdoor tasting experience, the cool onshore breeze made itself known – even in late June.  General Manager and Winemaker Fintan Du Fresne grew up around Pinot in his native New Zealand and holds a degree in geology.  One of the strongest impressions I took from the tasting was the consistency of style across all the wines.  The appellation-sourced Pinot and Chardonnay and the “Califa” (“prettiest,” sourced from the best barrels) bottlings all showed lean body and clean, refreshing acidity balancing the restrained fruit flavors.  These wines show some kinship with their counterparts from New Zealand, but the cool fogs and loamy soils of Edna Valley seems to impart a linear quality that sets them apart from many other California Pinots and Chardonnays.

CLAIBORNE AND CHURCHILL

https://www.claibornechurchill.com

We spent the night before our Edna Valley visit in San Luis Obispo.  There we washed down take-out Thai food with a delicious bottle of local Gewürztraminer from Claiborne and Churchill. How did Gewürztraminer get here?  We wanted to know more.  

This family-owned winery is named after its founders, Claiborne (Clay) Thompson and Fredericka Churchill Thompson.  In the 1980’s, the couple left their teaching careers at the University of Michigan to begin a new life in California’s wine country.  They produce the Pinots and Chards that Edna Valley is known for, but they also have a passion for Alsatian wine, having spent time in the Alsace region of France.  The result is an unexpected emphasis on dry Rieslings, Pinot Gris and the aforementioned Gewürztraminer, sourced from their estate and from Central Coast areas beyond Edna Valley.  These varietals are relatively rare in California and were a joy to discover because we find them to be great complements to the lighter and spicier foods we eat in the summer months.  The wine cellar and tasting room occupy a building constructed from bales of rice straw.  Its 16-inch-thick walls maintain a constant temperature without the aid of mechanical cooling or heating and are one reason that Claiborne and Churchill is also SIP certified.  

Living in the Los Angeles area we enjoy relatively easy access to Santa Barbara County’s wine scene. Paso Robles is often the destination for a slightly longer adventure. But nestled in between the two we discovered Edna Valley to be filled with rural charm, passionate wine people and bottles that reveal a distinctive and lively coastal style.