New Zealand Report #2 • When American wine lovers think of New Zealand, Sauvignon Blanc immediately comes to mind.  In many ways it is the variety that put the Kiwis on the world’s wine map and accounted for nearly 75% of the nation’s production last year.  Pinot Noir is the other varietal that most often makes its way to our shores, representing 72% of all the red wine produced in New Zealand – but only 7.5% of the country’s total wine production.  When visiting a wine culture on the other side of the globe, however, one’s sense of adventure demands the seeking out of wines that are not available in every American supermarket.  That was only one reason our visit to the de la terre winery in the Hawke’s Bay region was such a delight.

The night before our visit we enjoyed a spectacular meal at Napier’s Pacifica Restaurant.  One of the wine pairings for that meal was de la terre’s delicious Barbera!  The next morning we drove through rolling pasturelands and eventually were greeted by Tony and Kaye Prichard.  After several decades of making wine for other companies, Tony began working as a consultant and also built de la terre, producing its first vintage in 2009.  In this case the word built is literally true – Tony constructed the buildings with his own hands.  Reflecting the winery’s name (“of the earth,”) the very walls of the winery and adjacent buildings are made of earthen bricks – “rammed earth” walls that are 14 inches thick.  Within these walls Tony creates very small quantities of wine that emphasize elegance, texture and balance.  Kaye, a formally trained chef, offers delicious field-to-table meals to visitors in a charming café located steps from the Cellar Door (the Kiwi term for tasting room).

Tony Prichard is an artist.  This is displayed in the minute details of the winery buildings that he has crafted and it is apparent in every sip of his wine.  As he serves visitors at the Cellar Door his enthusiasm for winemaking is contagious.  That passion has brought forth an extensive array of varietals rarely encountered in New Zealand: Methode Traditionnelle Blanc de Blancs, Viognier, Chardonnay, Syrah, Barbera, Montepulciano, Tannat, Late Harvest Viognier and Noble Viognier (a Sauterne-style wine).  All of them reflect an “old world” elegance (some of Tony’s early mentors were from Bordeaux): wine that is solidly structured and securely balanced.  This is thoughtful, meticulous wine making from a man whose reverence for detail is reflected in the glass.

Our original plan was to visit several wineries in Hawke’s Bay.  But we lingered so long with Tony and Kaye (and Gracie, the winery dog) that it was soon time to move on to our next destination.  One glass of Barbera over dinner had led us to a realm of New Zealand winemaking that we did not know existed – all without a drop of Pinot Noir or Sauvignon Blanc!